Today started late and lazy because it’s Sunday and I’m on holiday and I had no train or bus or plane to catch. I had breakfast, I got on a tram to a further north part of Rīga than I’ve seen so far in search of the Art Nouveau architecture- went too far but did find St Gertrude’s Church. It turns out the Art Nouveau stuff is right by the Esplanade and there are only two or three buildings that I saw or recognised or which stood out – not quite enough to merit a signpost pointing to “Art Nouveau Quarter”. It was also deserted. It’s not really a touristy part of town and the locals aren’t out on a Sunday either – a bit like walking through the City of London at the weekend. So I headed back to the Old Town, walked along the river to the castle, discovered that I hopped off a tram just round the corner on Friday, took a tram back to the Esplanade and then another one right out into the suburbs on the other side of the river, where I made a stop in a big hyper market full of things I neither recognise nor can identify. I think I bought some plastic cheese slices but until I eat them, I’m not certain. And they have no nice fresh bread rolls. 

Armed with food, I came home for my now-traditional late afternoon meal before going out in the dark again. I’m less apprehensive about Rīga in the dark already. I didn’t stay out long – there was packing to do and it was dark and chilly. Not cold. Other than when I’ve sat on concrete steps to eat or wait, it hasn’t been really cold. Not twenty-miles-from-the-Baltic-in-November cold. 

I have packed, I have eaten as much as I can. I’ve set my alarm. I’m just about ready to go. I have liked Latvia.