More idiots. Only one other van was left when I got up and they’d locked the toilet block from the inside. Not the individual cubicle but the whole block. I tried the door and got a mumble from within. Ten minutes later, I did everything short of smashing the door down. Communal space! Warmth! Water! Toilets! Not your personal whatever-you-think-you’re-doing-in-there-for-so-long! I was so angry I drove off to Snaefellsnes without basic morning jobs like washing up my plate & knife, brushing my teeth or even getting properly dressed.

It was less rainy than it had been and eventually the sun came out. I did the usual itinerary – Bjarnarfoss, Radfelgja, Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Djupalonssandur, then I climbed Saxholl, a crater I promised two or three years ago to come back to. 486 red iron steps up to the top (or possibly 388 – I counted both going up and coming down and was out by a whole hundred between the two numbers) or a perfect crunchy red pumice volcano.

Give or take photo stops, it was straight down to Akranes. I caught the red sunset reflecting on the mountains behind Borgarnes and I finally got Snaefellsjokull silhouetted against an orange sunset by the time I was on the road into Akranes, after it had been sitting under a cloud for the whole day as I drove round it.

The campsite at Akranes is right opposite Snaefellsnes – well, it’s on the other side of the bay. I parked up, paid, spied a sign with the wifi password so I got out the Kindle to try out the Experimental Browser, after several days with no phone. As I stood outside the office, I glanced up while waiting for it to connect and spotted a pale green streak right across the sky above my head. Northern Lights! Within five minutes they’d turned to huge swooshes of white and green and pink, so close, so rippling, so amazing, more vivid than anything I’ve ever seen before. I caught them on camera, although for once they looked better in real life (which is the opposite of what usually happens). I’ve never seen the Northern Lights without a foot of snow, temperatures in the many minuses and I’ve never ever seen them while wearing sandals. However, it wasn’t too warm and when the Lights had faded away, I returned to my campervan, to my Kindle and internet, and book and went to sleep.